Puddings
An adult cook's hands holding a ceramic pudding basin just turned out onto a plate, the domed pudding intact, steam rising, dark kitchen background

One basin · 1.2 litres · 8 servings

A Christmas pudding is 570g of fruit, 110g of flour and eight hours you have to be in the house for

Everything on this site is written the way you would write it on a card: what to buy, what it weighs, and how long it sits over the water.

Read the recipe
570g
dried vine fruit, soaked overnight
110g
beef suet, shredded
110g
plain flour, and no more
110g
fresh white breadcrumbs
110g
dark muscovado, plus a spoon of treacle
8 hrs
steaming, on the day it is made
2 hrs
steaming again, on Christmas Day

The turn-out is where the buttering gets judged: a thinly greased basin tears the dome.Photo: Yasin Onuş / Pexels

Stir-up Sunday is the last Sunday before Advent. It takes its name from the collect that begins Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord, and it is the day the mixture gets made — not the day the pudding gets eaten.

A hand serves sticky toffee pudding from a baking tray onto an empty plate

The one to make this week

Sticky Toffee Pudding

Individual moulds give a better crust-to-centre ratio than a single dish — and the dates go in as a purée, not whole.

Three that are finished in an afternoon, and one that decides the crumb

The larder, by weight

All of The Larder
Bars are drawn against the 570g of fruit, the heaviest thing in the basin.
In the recipeRelative weightWhat it isWhat it does
Weighed dry, in grams
570gDried vine fruitSugar, bulk and the whole of the colour once it has taken up spirit
110gBeef suet, shreddedMelts later than butter, so the crumb sets open rather than tight
110gPlain flourSifted with the mixed spice, cinnamon and cloves — and no more than this
110gFresh white breadcrumbsStructure rather than filler: a lighter crumb than flour alone would set
110gDark muscovadoDamp, molasses-heavy, and the reason the finished pudding is nearly black
Measured by spoon and by egg
1 tbspBlack treacleBitterness against all that sugar. One spoon; two is too many
3 largeEggsBeaten with the treacle before they go near the dry ingredients
Poured, and the thing it all goes into
75mlDark rum, with 75ml stoutLoosens the batter on mixing day, then preserves the pudding for eight weeks
1.2 LThe basinA rim the string can bite on, and thick enough to take eight hours of boiling

Origins

It was a pottage before it was a pudding, and 1861 is where it stopped moving

Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord, the wills of thy faithful people.

The collect for the Sunday next before Advent, The Book of Common Prayer
Vintage advertisement for Cadbury's Cocoa showing a woman drinking from a cup
Beeton’s 1861 recipe fixed the proportions that most kitchens still work from. Photo: Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management (28) · Wikimedia Commons
  1. 1747

    Hannah Glasse

    The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy

  2. 1845

    Eliza Acton

    Modern Cookery for Private Families

  3. 1861

    Isabella Beeton

    Book of Household Management

  4. 1940s

    The rationing recipes

    Grated carrot for fruit, and far less of everything

All four books, and what each one changed →

The schedule, end to end

One Sunday in November, then a tablespoon a week. The Calendar section

Night before

Fruit soaks in rum, stout and citrus, covered, at room temperature.

8 hours

Stir-up Sunday: mix, fill the basin, pleat the cover, steam.

Weekly

A tablespoon of rum or brandy through skewer holes, re-wrapped each time.

2 hours

Christmas Day: steam again, turn out hot, flame with warmed brandy.

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